My sister and I ended our mini Asian-food crawl at Cho Dang Gol, a Korean restaurant on 35rd in Midtown that managed to distance itself from the overpacked 32nd street. This place, more spacious and calming than other similarly sized restaurants, serves fresh homemade tofu - its main attraction - and what many say sets it apart from the dozens of Korean food and BBQ venues just three blocks away.
It seemed to logical to order the CDG (Cho Dang Gol) tofu slices appetizer at a tofu house. We had expected fresh quivering silken soy custard blocks but instead we received slabs of the extra- firm variety (made of black and white soy beans) and a garlic chive garnish. These pieces were dense and crumbly, and lent a raw soybean taste that I didn't enjoy.
The banchan arrived after the appetizer and were for the most part extremely tasty and made up for the flavorless starter. The kimchi was bright and tart with a bite to the whites of the napa leaves. Tender shitake mushroom, caramelized fried kelp chips, and tofu cakes were also delicious. The standout was the deep-green watercress salad that was pungent but ice-cold and refreshing.
With the banchan arrived the spicy tofu stew with kimchi and beef. It was soul-satisfying. The silken tofu, airy and light, nestled in a robust, spicy soup that perfectly balanced tart and peppery notes from the kimchi and Korean peppers and the richness of the beef broth.
The first sip slaps you awake. I was still stuffed from dessert at Spot and the unappetizing tofu appetizer that I reluctantly finished before this dish arrived, but I couldn't stop inhaling spoonfuls of this delicious stew. The beef bits are small though, don't expect strips of galbi.
Cho Dang Gol
| 55 W 35th St New York, NY 10001 |
