A very belated catch-up lunch at Omai in Chelsea:
I've generally steered clear of roll appetizers at Asian restaurants, but after recently devouring the phenomenal porky rolls at Pho Grand in Chinatown I considered myself converted.
But these fried shrimp and pork spring rolls lacked the highly-anticipated burst of juicy filling and tasted more like dehydrated cabbage and mushrooms than anything. The inside mixture was chalky in texture and encased in a stale, chewy wrapper.
Tender shitake, mild bok choy and tough chicken occupied a very cool-looking traditional clay pot. Ginger was used generously. Any food that comes in a stone bowl or clay pot is just...better, but this particular rice dish lacked elements of clay pot cooking; the distinct clay pot aroma, sizzling toppings, and rice with a golden crispy crust were missed.
I've been so spoiled with easy access to cheap tasty pho bowls brimming with hot broth, a generous pile of beef, and a monstrous tangle of rice noodles underneath that shelling out 9 dollars for such a small bowl seemed like splurging.
But the pull of beefy broth and fresh basil on a gloomy day is a strong one. I caved and settled for the petite version. Yes, every ingredient was used in moderation, but the beef tasted purer, the broth was rich without being greasy, and the herb garnishes were more vibrant The only thing missing was a pile of crispy bean sprouts.
Omai
158 9th Ave
New York, NY 10011
